Day 5: Once Brewed to Chollerford

 


After 14 miles of hard walking we were very glad to arrive at our hotel just in time for the England Chile match!

 

Another good breakfast made even better by it being the first time Marmite had been an option. Worth an extra star for the hotel in itself I reckon! Shame the packed lunch they provided let them down (stale bread, tasteless cheese, and salt and vinegar crisps that tasted more like cheese and onion). The pub did brew their own beer though – I had an excellent bitter but wasn’t brave enough to try the salted caramel or the bubblegum sour beer options! 

 

For the first 4 or 5 miles the weather was dreich – raining half the time and like walking through clouds for the rest. Which was a shame because I suspect this part of the walk has the best views. It also passes the most famous photo opportunity on the whole walk at sycamore gap (our header picture today). It was very up and down along a line of crags, walking alongside the remains of the wall just a couple of feet from a sheer drop with a line of loughs below. Definitely not a walk to bring your grandchildren on (especially Noah). Along the crags we saw enthusiasts rock climbing on the cliffs – rather them than me.

 

We stopped alongside one of the turret ruins for a coffee and kitkat (other chocolate treats are available), and within 5 minutes the weather changed completely and the sun began to shine. We even saw a faint rainbow!

 

As the clouds cleared we were able to see the crags which we had walked over, as well as the views all around of the Northumberland countryside, stunning.

 

The path continued along grassy tracks following the line of the wall, which became less obvious as we progressed. I assume as we began to enter farm land again there were more potential uses of stones from the wall. 

 

We met many people on the walk - a surprising number from the US, Canada, Australia, South Africa and Europe as well as many more local including a group of students on a Duke of Edinburgh expedition who had got lost. Strictly speaking they are not supposed to ask for help – but a question – what would you do if they asked you where they were?

 

The path was easier but muddier now as we continued through pasture land before getting to our hotel alongside the North Tyne river in Chollerford. All in all a hard but rewarding day.

 

(knees and ankles all surviving but requiring another ice pack!)


photos today .... Marmite; beer; dreich weather; rock climbing; lough; coffee break; rainbow (look hard!); striding out; muddy path












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